Bratislava, Slovakia

Bratislava, Slovakia:

I got off of my train in Bratislava, an hour away from Vienna.  I looked around to see a lot of hard expressions.  The people seem cold and like they might be unforgiving.  I smile at a girl and she smiles back and I get a sense of relief.  I prayed for someone to help me if needed because so far, not many speak English very well.  

I am very tired and hanging on by a very think thread since my jet lag is so over powering.  I ask a guy next to me if he speaks English and can point me in the direction of the street where my hostel is.  He says, yes, I'll show you since I am going that way.  I ask him straight up, "Are you a good guy or a bad guy?"  Knowing I can ditch him if he seems shady.  He smiles and says, "Bad".  I knew in my heart he wasn't.  So we got off of the bus together, he grabs my luggage for me and reaches over to pull up my hood over my head as if to say, "I'm looking out for you, let's go".  

It's dark and cold out and it's raining.  We head to my hostel and he smokes like a chimney.  We grab a beer at a pub around the corner and he proceeds to tell me that Bratislava is a safe city.  We talk about WW2 and the admiration he has for German hard work and craftmanship.  But he also tells me that they were relieved to kick the Germans out for being so awful.  I got the impression of how felt about Germans like this:  A man and wife, the husband is German and the wife is Slovak, Polish, whatever...  The wife cannot help but admire her husband for his undeniable intelligence and hard work - but the wife finally mustered up the courage to let him go for being an inbearable asshole.  I know - it's watered down.  It was really neat to hear it first hand.  Being an American we are so far removed from the real tension that surrounds the holocaust.  

A tribute to San Francisco - Ton lásky z Slovensko!

I have been in Slovakia for about 2 months now.  I am getting some pretty big bouts of homesickness for San Francisco.  It is such a great city - to me, it is nearly impossible not to miss.  I have enjoyed being here in Slovakia - mostly I have chosen to see the good here wherever I can find it.  Also, ever curious to explore new terrain, getting to know this culture and the environment has been entertaining.  However, all it took was one look at a photo of San Francisco's skyline for me to feel a deep thirst for home.  

San Francisco has some of the best food in the world.  I can't even find darker lettuce here, it's cabbage or romaine mostly.  I have been living on a pretty steady diet mostly of fried potatoes with onions and paprika, roasted bell peppers, and oatmeal.  At the store it's either hit or miss to find ground beef.  Don't get me wrong, if you get creative here in Slovakia you can make a pretty decent meal.  The most regularly eaten and favorite dish here in Slovakia is Halushki.  I haven't made it yet but one of my lovely students has invited me over on Sunday so that we can make it together.  I've included the recipe below.  Teraz!  (enjoy in Slovak)

I've taken up knitting here and have just finished my first scarf.  I've already started two more.  Friends and family members might be getting them for Christmas since I am on such a roll with my new hobby.  It's really quite addictive!!  My Slovak students tease me - one student said that I am like an old lady during Communism.  I keep hearing that all of the clothes, houses and cars were the same during that time so it was nice to have something knitted that was unique.  I love hearing about these Communist stories.  One student told me how everything felt safer as though they were sheltered from anything bad or negative.  Everyone had a home and a job - in fact it was not legal to not work.  Overall though, the consensus is that people are mostly happy to be free.  If someone spoke against the government in any way, you might find trouble with your work somehow... or worse, could be sent to prison and/or Siberia.

I am learning how to survive in other ways as well.  When our freezer broke we had to keep our food out side of our window.  When it was snowy it was as good as any freezer.  We don't have a washer and dryer either so we have to wash our clothes old-school style in the bath tub.  I don't mind as it's toning my arm muscles. ;)  

There is lots more to tell and I will add more to my blog when I have more time.  I've been busy with teaching English as I keep getting more and more classes.  I am pleasantly surprised at how much fun it has been to teach.  There are times I almost laugh all the way to the bank since it doesn't feel like work.  I am just sharing a skill I have naturally.  However, it's not all easy as I do have to prepare and grammar isn't always a breeze to teach.  

Thanks for taking the time to read my blog.  If you make Halushki, please let me know what you think.

Ton lásky z Slovensko!  (Tons of love from Slovakia!)

Halushki - A Slovak favorite

Polish Halushki With Potato dumplings nov 03  print recipe Polish Halushki with Potato Dumplings Posted by jerseyjan 7/17/01 10:47:14 am One of my family’s favorites.  Very rich and fattening but worth it.  My Mom taught my Dad and Dad taught me.  My brother and I grew up on this. Potato Dumplings 4 peeled and grated Idaho potatoes 2 eggs 2 teaspoons salt About 3 1/2 to 4 cups flour Grate potatoes, add salt, eggs and flour.  Add a little water (about 1/4 to 1/2 cup) if dough is too stiff.  Drop small portions from tip of spoon into boiling water.  Cook 5-8 minutes.  Drain well. Keep warm. Fry 1 pound bacon and crumble into pieces. Fry 1 medium head (core removed) of chopped cabbage and 3 medium diced onions in butter till slightly browned.  Season with salt and pepper. Combine cooked potato dumplings, crumbled bacon, browned cabbage and onions.  Add a little more butter, if needed, if it appears too dry.  Season to taste. Best if served immediately. * NOTE: To raw potato dumplings mixture I sometimes add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and 2 cloves minced fresh garlic.

A dumpling for you from Slovakia

Hello from Slovakia!

I have been so busy with teaching English, exploring, meeting new people, shopping, etc. that I haven't ahd a lot of time to write. Please pardon any errors as I am short on time) Here is a brief overview of some experiences in my Eastern European travels to date:

I've been quite busy with getting to know this town, Zilina, learning a bit of Slovak, teaching English, knitting my very first scarf, trying local cuisine, etc. I've been going out Friday nights to a club called Miami to dance. It's fun and we usually pull an all nighter (until about 6am) since it's open late and then sleep most of Saturday.

I am still training with Katrina while she teaches larger classes and i have about 4 or 5 of my own students so far (its still the beginning for me) and I teach them each one on one. There are many different levels of English skill so I first have to find out what level they are and how exactly they'd like to go about learning it. Some people want pure conversation, some want grammar, etc.

It's a little rough here because there are not many people who speak fluent English so i almost feel i must be mute most of the time when i am out. but like i said, i am now speaking in Slo-nglish so it's getting me by. I have only met one Australian and one Brit in town that speak fluently. the Ausi is here to play soccer so we have now met a portion of the Zilina soccer team since we have met some of his friends as well.

It's been really cold and snowy here so i miss my regular jogs and walks. it was -19 below over the weekend. it feels like any protruding part on my body might fall off if i am outside for too long. fortunately i have plenty of great winter gear. hopefully i can wear my scarf while it's still cold (the one i am knitting).

I am really enjoying teaching English so far but i have to slow down a lot and it feels a little retarded. Katrina and i have promised each other that when we speak to each other that we can use really big and good words so that we don't come back to the states all Forest Gumpy.

I love the dancing here but i have to take a shower as soon as i get home am my coat smells like cigarettes for about 5 ays afterwards since the clubs and restaurants are filled with smoke. the thought of quitting smoking for good health seems like a foreign concept to these people... i get a blank stare if i mention it to anyone.

There is graffiti everywhere! a lot of it is really cool. i can't wait to take more photos. my frikken camera broke - the screen got poked so i have to get a new one - SO bummed out about it.

The cemeteries here are so heart-warming. There are always flowers and candles on every grave. If I ever had to go to a cemetery at night, this is one I would not mind being in as the graves re so cared for I cannot imagine that their are any bitter ghosts.

The little girl that lives with us is quite cute and funny but is also in her 2's so e all know what that means. I am using the time with her to hone my parenting skills for when I have my own children someday.

I've talked to a few locals about Communism and it's been interesting to hear about it. i can hear the tone of voice and see the expression when they talk about and get a good feel for how intense it was for them. hearing about how you couldn't speak your opinion or you would get arrested and sent to Siberia made nauseous! the guy kept saying - you cannot imagine because you have always been free...

Anyway there is lots more to tell but i have to pack up the lap top and give it to Katrina to take to work. my new netbook doesn't work - thus another reason i cannot write all of the time. ill try to get in some more solid writing soon though.

Love you all <3>