Back in the States - Love and Hate

Walking down Valencia street in San Francisco, two gangster looking guys walk out of a building and rudely look at me like a piece of meat they want to buy for dinner for $2.99 or use their coupon and undeniable vulgar charm, to reduce my price to $1.99. I walk a block with them near me while giving them the "step off" vibe. Then one of them takes a big final gulp of his soda and tosses it in the gutter. I shutter in disgust and disappointment and give his friend a look like, "really??" There is a trash can less than 5 feet away.

I walk ahead reminding myself that this is what I hate about America - rudeness, lack of class - and then that I probably shouldn't reprimand these guys since I could get shot. You never want to piss off the wrong person here...

Then a block away - I see a little Mexican ice cream cart and I remember the times when I was little and would go to my neighborhood Mexican flea market to buy a coconut popsicle. I walk up to him and ask if he has coconut. He says "Yes, it's $1.50" and then I hand him my money and he shakes his hand no - I look up and there is a really cute Mexican guy who looks at me as if he loves me - a real respect in his eyes - perhaps because I'm a white girl buying from the Mexican cart and says - "No, no, I've got it".

This, to me, is America. There are things here that I find so vulgar, disappointing and embarrassing and then around the corner there is something with such class, sweetness and generosity that it makes me realize that there are always 2 sides to the coin..

Prague (Praha) - A city dripping with immaculate detail

On the train to Prague from Zilina and already, as the Czech people start to infiltrate the train along the way, I can feel the energy shift into a lighter feel. I have heard all along in Slovakia that Czechs are more social but not as warm as Slovaks, or something to that degree. I feel more at home with these people because I am used to urban, SF lifestyle. It’s a breath of fresh air for me. Even the countryside looks cleaner and more modern...

Prague is one of the most amazing cities I have ever seen. The architecture is insane. The details. Omg. They are not playing around. It makes American architecture look lazy and sloppy. I feel like I could live in Prague. I love the feeling here amongst the people. They seem lively, relaxed, attentive, interesting and interested at the same time. It is such a gorgeous place and one that I would have maybe imagined from a fairy-tale. It also has that Eastern European grit that I really like, that to me, gives it the perfect balance. :)

Auschwitz - Poland

"Arbeit macht frei" a quote from most Nazi German concentration camps meaning literally, "Work will make you free"


I cannot describe these feelings adequately...

I felt angry and nauseous and of course deep sorrow while visiting Auschwitz. I had to divert my feelings along the way because it was overwhelming for me to take it all in. I have thought about this mass murder on an unimaginable scale for many years so for me I was pretty well-informed before walking in. I was still shocked and I felt I had to use a lot of self-control to avoid breaking down in and sobbing in public. So many emotions... But I didn't want to let it sink in completely because it would stay in my bones for a while I think and throw my mind into a spiral of confusion, disgust and anger for God knows how long.

Some of the photos I took were so disturbing to me that I won't post them here. As I was walking through the large outdoor area of ovens I was trying to think of words to describe the feeling of this place and the only discription that fell upon me was "this is a glimpse of hell". An endless display of evil in different forms.

There was a sign to warn prisoners not to touch the 120 volt fence, however, it was a quick option for suicide. The piles of shoes, brushes, combs, empty cans that held cyclone B to gas the prisoners, suitcases and baskets, pots and bowls, and childrens toys and clothes were really hard to take in. Seeing human size ovens and gas chambers were really gut-wrenching. The paintings of kittens on the walls in the wash rooms made my mind reel. Most of us would perfer to turn away than to see this because it is truely tormenting and profoundly disturbing. I, however, think it's important for people to see how wicked people can be if they let things go like this and turn a blind eye to it.

Bratislava, Slovakia

Bratislava, Slovakia:

I got off of my train in Bratislava, an hour away from Vienna.  I looked around to see a lot of hard expressions.  The people seem cold and like they might be unforgiving.  I smile at a girl and she smiles back and I get a sense of relief.  I prayed for someone to help me if needed because so far, not many speak English very well.  

I am very tired and hanging on by a very think thread since my jet lag is so over powering.  I ask a guy next to me if he speaks English and can point me in the direction of the street where my hostel is.  He says, yes, I'll show you since I am going that way.  I ask him straight up, "Are you a good guy or a bad guy?"  Knowing I can ditch him if he seems shady.  He smiles and says, "Bad".  I knew in my heart he wasn't.  So we got off of the bus together, he grabs my luggage for me and reaches over to pull up my hood over my head as if to say, "I'm looking out for you, let's go".  

It's dark and cold out and it's raining.  We head to my hostel and he smokes like a chimney.  We grab a beer at a pub around the corner and he proceeds to tell me that Bratislava is a safe city.  We talk about WW2 and the admiration he has for German hard work and craftmanship.  But he also tells me that they were relieved to kick the Germans out for being so awful.  I got the impression of how felt about Germans like this:  A man and wife, the husband is German and the wife is Slovak, Polish, whatever...  The wife cannot help but admire her husband for his undeniable intelligence and hard work - but the wife finally mustered up the courage to let him go for being an inbearable asshole.  I know - it's watered down.  It was really neat to hear it first hand.  Being an American we are so far removed from the real tension that surrounds the holocaust.  

A tribute to San Francisco - Ton lásky z Slovensko!

I have been in Slovakia for about 2 months now.  I am getting some pretty big bouts of homesickness for San Francisco.  It is such a great city - to me, it is nearly impossible not to miss.  I have enjoyed being here in Slovakia - mostly I have chosen to see the good here wherever I can find it.  Also, ever curious to explore new terrain, getting to know this culture and the environment has been entertaining.  However, all it took was one look at a photo of San Francisco's skyline for me to feel a deep thirst for home.  

San Francisco has some of the best food in the world.  I can't even find darker lettuce here, it's cabbage or romaine mostly.  I have been living on a pretty steady diet mostly of fried potatoes with onions and paprika, roasted bell peppers, and oatmeal.  At the store it's either hit or miss to find ground beef.  Don't get me wrong, if you get creative here in Slovakia you can make a pretty decent meal.  The most regularly eaten and favorite dish here in Slovakia is Halushki.  I haven't made it yet but one of my lovely students has invited me over on Sunday so that we can make it together.  I've included the recipe below.  Teraz!  (enjoy in Slovak)

I've taken up knitting here and have just finished my first scarf.  I've already started two more.  Friends and family members might be getting them for Christmas since I am on such a roll with my new hobby.  It's really quite addictive!!  My Slovak students tease me - one student said that I am like an old lady during Communism.  I keep hearing that all of the clothes, houses and cars were the same during that time so it was nice to have something knitted that was unique.  I love hearing about these Communist stories.  One student told me how everything felt safer as though they were sheltered from anything bad or negative.  Everyone had a home and a job - in fact it was not legal to not work.  Overall though, the consensus is that people are mostly happy to be free.  If someone spoke against the government in any way, you might find trouble with your work somehow... or worse, could be sent to prison and/or Siberia.

I am learning how to survive in other ways as well.  When our freezer broke we had to keep our food out side of our window.  When it was snowy it was as good as any freezer.  We don't have a washer and dryer either so we have to wash our clothes old-school style in the bath tub.  I don't mind as it's toning my arm muscles. ;)  

There is lots more to tell and I will add more to my blog when I have more time.  I've been busy with teaching English as I keep getting more and more classes.  I am pleasantly surprised at how much fun it has been to teach.  There are times I almost laugh all the way to the bank since it doesn't feel like work.  I am just sharing a skill I have naturally.  However, it's not all easy as I do have to prepare and grammar isn't always a breeze to teach.  

Thanks for taking the time to read my blog.  If you make Halushki, please let me know what you think.

Ton lásky z Slovensko!  (Tons of love from Slovakia!)

Halushki - A Slovak favorite

Polish Halushki With Potato dumplings nov 03  print recipe Polish Halushki with Potato Dumplings Posted by jerseyjan 7/17/01 10:47:14 am One of my family’s favorites.  Very rich and fattening but worth it.  My Mom taught my Dad and Dad taught me.  My brother and I grew up on this. Potato Dumplings 4 peeled and grated Idaho potatoes 2 eggs 2 teaspoons salt About 3 1/2 to 4 cups flour Grate potatoes, add salt, eggs and flour.  Add a little water (about 1/4 to 1/2 cup) if dough is too stiff.  Drop small portions from tip of spoon into boiling water.  Cook 5-8 minutes.  Drain well. Keep warm. Fry 1 pound bacon and crumble into pieces. Fry 1 medium head (core removed) of chopped cabbage and 3 medium diced onions in butter till slightly browned.  Season with salt and pepper. Combine cooked potato dumplings, crumbled bacon, browned cabbage and onions.  Add a little more butter, if needed, if it appears too dry.  Season to taste. Best if served immediately. * NOTE: To raw potato dumplings mixture I sometimes add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and 2 cloves minced fresh garlic.